Yamaha Journey Vol.06

I took the ferry between Himeji and Shodo Island. It was exciting for me to transport my bike by ferry as I had never tried that back home. In the process we passed a lot of boats, and the volume of people and freight traveling back and forth was a surprise. But for all the traffic on the water, Shodo Island was exceptionally quiet. Home to both a soy sauce brewery and a sesame oil factory, the scent on the air differs greatly depending on where you are. I find myself charmed by this island. The beautiful blue ocean and plentiful greenery are a drawcard, but for riders, a big attraction is that being one of the driest parts of Japan, there is little chance of getting wet. The highlight though was the successive hairpin turns on the road that leads to the gorge looking out over the Seto Inland Sea - simply fantastic. Despite being a small island, it never got dull. Having a chance to see wild monkeys added another dimension.

I made the trip between Shodo Island and Takamatsu by ferry too. You can't pass through Takamatsu without trying Sanuki udon. You walk in and they give you a bowl. The first person behind the counter fills your bowl with noodles and the second ladles soup over the top. Finally, you help yourself to the toppings. This process is free of embellishment – the idea is to simply enjoy your meal. And the staff members work with a smile, taking pride in their work. I love coming in contact with that kind of work and I am always moved by friendly service. Sanuki udon is perfection in itself, but I felt that it was also flavored with the warmth of the people who served it.

While there are places where you are reminded of human warmth, Shikoku is also home to locations that put you in a mystical frame of mind. Of these, my all-time favorite is the Iya Valley. Once, when I was in an Australian national park as a child, I remember having the sensation that I was not breathing in the air and wind, but rather that they were coming from me - I experienced that same breath of life in the Iya Valley too. Here the roads run as if stitching the valleys together, and the views must be among the best I have ever experienced in Japan. I am always struck by the beauty of the interior of Shikoku. Traveling the back roads from Iya Valley, I arrive in Kochi. There are several sights worth seeing, such as the Kochi Castle and the statue of Sakamoto Ryoma, but my favorite of these is the awe-inspiringly large Ryuga Caves. These caves have a long history. At the exit is a very interesting exhibition introducing the lifestyle of the cave people who lived here in tune with nature for generation upon generation.

To travel from Ehime to Hiroshima, I journey over the Seto Inland Sea via the Shimanami Kaido Expressway (Nishiseto Expressway). On the path this bridge traverses, there are a great number of small islands and beaches to be seen. Some of the islands are completely empty and totally quiet. At times I do not simply follow the bridge, I ride around an island and then head for the next one. There are two places in Japan where the sunrise cannot be topped: one is Noto Peninsula; the other is here. This area is one that is fixed in my memory as a place I want to return to over and over again. Finally, I arrive in Hiroshima and head for the beautiful Miyajima. In Hiroshima I enjoy oysters and okonomiyaki. This too, is something I always do.

Before I go touring, I always do some rough research on the route and surrounding area, but I don't feel like I have to stick to that plan. Sometimes I might be rained out and unable to go anywhere, or I might be lucky enough to meet someone or come across something extraordinary, and then I think it is worth rethinking my plans and extending my stay. Touring is not a job, so having a good time is my priority. The trick to memorable touring is being flexible enough to improvise.